Retinol 101: A Detailed Guide

Retinol is often credited with being the most effective skin-care ingredient for battling wrinkles and other skin imperfections, including acne. “If you’re going to use one thing, it should be some form of retinoid,” says Nazanin Saedi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and clinical associate professor at Thomas Jefferson University in Philadelphia.

Retinoids and retinols are both part of the vitamin A family, but their intensities differ. “Retinols are basically a weaker form of retinoids, which is why they’re [available] over the counter,” says Saedi. Retinoids, on the other hand, are available at higher concentrations, mostly by prescription. Common retinoids include isotretinoin (Accutane), retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, tazarotene (Tazorac), and tretinoin (Vesanoid).

Even though retinols are weaker than retinoids, they still work, although you do need to commit to 12 weeks of use to see results, says Saedi. “They just take longer to work because they’re lower potency,” she says. “Among the benefits of over-the-counter retinols is that oftentimes they’re mixed with moisturizers, so they’re not as irritating, and since it’s a weaker formulation altogether, it’s gentler on the skin.”

Saedi recommends that everyone use some form of retinoid, starting in their teenage years. For teens, a retinoid can help treat pimples and acne, and people in their twenties and beyond can benefit from the wrinkle prevention retinoids provide, she says.

“They’re great to use,” says Saedi. “We have so much science behind them, and there’s a formulation that works for everyone.”

Retinol is readily available in serums, creams, moisturizers, gels, and face mask products, in a variety of potencies and formulations.

Most retinoid gels or creams are available in 0.025 percent, 0.05 percent, and 0.1 percent concentrations. Within a given formulation, a higher concentration makes for a stronger product, but no matter the potency, a retinoid will deliver results. “Even a low grade would be effective, but you have to commit to it,” says Saedi. She recommends committing to 12 weeks of treatment before expecting to see results. Manish Shah, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon based in Denver, says that it could be a full year before you see the most significant results.

• Dryness
• Itching
• Burning
• Redness
• Peeling
• Scaling

The more concentrated the product, the more potentially severe the negative side effects. “Since prescription retinoids are more active, they can irritate the skin sooner and for longer,” says Sheel Desai Solomon, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Preston Dermatology and Skin Surgery in Cary, North Carolina.

Over time, the skin builds a tolerance, so while you may experience some redness and irritation when you start using retinol or another retinoid (due to the increased skin turnover), your skin may be able to handle the ingredient better after a few weeks. “Eventually, the skin becomes more resilient to the irritation, while still benefiting from the retinoids,” says Dr. Solomon.

Since retinoids are available over the counter, it’s important to read the labels on these skin-care products carefully.

Experts recommend trying a range of gels and creams, depending on your skin type, specific needs, and current level of experience with retinol and retinoid products.

Consider product strength, type, and ingredients when choosing a product. Shah warns to watch out for ingredients that sound like retinol, such as “pro-retinols” or “retinyl propionate.” They’re not as effective, he says. Choose a gel if you have acne-prone skin (the drying quality reduces breakouts) and a cream for normal or dry skin, says Shah.

Look for an over-the-counter product with a concentration of at least 0.025 percent, recommends Shah. You can choose a higher concentration if your skin isn’t particularly sensitive, but 0.025 percent is the minimum amount you need for it to be effective. It may take some trial and error to figure out what strength and frequency works best for your skin, but it’s a worthwhile pursuit. “Almost everyone can use some formulation of it. It’s just a matter of getting your skin accustomed to it,” he says.

When to Use Retinol

To minimize irritation, Shah recommends sandwiching the retinol between moisturizer applications.

How Often Should You Use Retinol?

Most dermatologists recommend easing your way into retinoid use to avoid a negative reaction.

“I typically recommend [using the product] every third night and then [after a week or two] every other night and eventually every night,” says Saedi.

She advises starting with an over-the-counter retinol and working up to a prescription-strength option if needed or preferred, as the skin’s tolerance builds.

The Takeaway

• Retinols and retinoids are members of the vitamin A family that can effectively help the skin fight acne and signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles.
• Both are readily available in over-the-counter and prescription-strength serums, creams, moisturizers, gels, and face mask products.
• Retinol and retinoids can cause redness, burning, and scaling — side effects that are often more severe with higher-potency products and usually subside as your skin builds up a tolerance.
• If you’re new to retinol use and want to give it a try, experts recommend starting with an over-the-counter product with a concentration of at least 0.025 percent, as well as using a moisturizer before and after to minimize irritation.