If you have atopic dermatitis, the most common type of eczema, you may be thinking about how summer will affect your skin and how you can give your skin that natural-looking, sun-kissed glow. Since there is no such thing as a safe or healthy tan, self-tanners may be one option, even when you have eczema.
“Self-tanner can be a great way to get color, but there are several potential drawbacks, some of which are specific to eczema patients,” says S. Tyler Hollmig, MD, the director of dermatologic surgery and the director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of Texas at Austin.
“Patients with eczema really need to have their skin in prime, treated condition in order to tolerate self-tanner, and for best appearance,” he adds.
Using Self-Tanner When You Have Atopic Dermatitis
As someone with atopic dermatitis, you might be a pro at reading labels on your skin-care products. You’re not only looking for words like “gentle,” “fragrance-free,” or “designed for sensitive skin” — you’re also reading the ingredients list. The same wisdom applies when choosing a self-tanner.
“The challenges faced with self-tanners may really apply to a variety of personal-care products, in that there are certain ingredients that are notoriously irritating in patients with sensitive skin or atopic dermatitis,” says Jonathan Silverberg, MD, an associate professor of dermatology at the George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences in Washington, DC.
Self-tanners are leave-on products, and so there may be an increased risk that the ingredients in the formula, like preservatives, will cause irritation.
The main active ingredient in most self-tanners is dihydroxyacetone (DHA), an additive that reacts with amino acids in the outer layer of skin to produce that sun-kissed glow, which has been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
There is not much data on DHA and atopic dermatitis. But in Hollmig’s experience, DHA can irritate your skin, as well as cause allergic contact dermatitis, especially in those prone to atopic dermatitis.
When choosing a self-tanner, know that your product will probably contain DHA, as that’s the active ingredient that changes your skin tone. Still, you can take a few precautions.
One, look for a product that is labeled safe for sensitive skin. Products that have fewer additives (such as fragrances and preservatives) or a shorter list of ingredients, as well as those that contain additional moisturizers can decrease the risk of irritation and promote a healthy skin barrier.
If you’re getting a spray tan, you can ask the salon what type of product they use — in general, the advice on how to use at-home bottled self-tanners applies to a spray tan as well.
As Hollmig notes, it’s important that skin is in its best shape prior to self-tanner application. Dry skin or rough scaly patches will take up self-tanner unevenly, resulting in blotchy areas. Make sure that prior to application, you have been sticking to a consistent moisturizing routine.
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Before Trying a Self-Tanner, Test Your Skin
Overall, the likelihood of skin reacting to self-tanners is low, but if you have sensitive skin or have had adverse reactions to products in the past, be more careful applying something new, including self-tanner, suggests Silverberg. He recommends doing a “repeat open-use test.” Here’s how to do it:
Apply the product (in this case, your self-tanner of choice) on a one- to two-centimeter area of the skin at the crease of the elbow.
Repeat once or twice per day for a couple of weeks.
Watch for a reaction, such as redness or irritation.
“If you react on your arm, you may have avoided a full-body flare-up. If it was well tolerated, it’s reasonable to step up application and use it on the other parts of your body,” says Silverberg. There is still no guarantee you won’t react, but it’s less likely.
He also suggests purchasing a smaller, travel-size of the product (if available) so that it’s less of an initial investment.
Using Sunscreen When You Have Atopic Dermatitis
In general, self-tanning products are not a replacement for sunscreen with SPF. In other words, that faux tan won’t guard your skin from the harmful UVA and UVB rays from the sun.
To do that, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher every day, and choose a water-resistant, broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher for extended outdoor activity, the Skin Cancer Foundation recommends. Reapply every two hours or after swimming or sweating.
SPF is important for everyone, but people with atopic dermatitis may have an additional reason to use SPF: Eczema may make your skin more vulnerable to the effects of the sun. Sunburn can damage the skin barrier, making severe atopic dermatitis worse and causing flares.
Overall, plan to continue to use sunscreen regularly when you're outside in the summer and year-round. “SPF can and should be applied right on top of a fake tan,” says Hollmig.
The Takeaway
Generally speaking, it’s safe to use self-tanner when you have atopic dermatitis. Just be sure to read all the ingredients on the label of the product, look for a product that is safe for sensitive skin, and make sure your skin is moisturized and in its best shape prior to application.
Jacquelyn Dosal, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist practicing at The Dermatology House in Park City, Utah. Her areas of expertise include acne, rosacea, integrative treatments of inflammatory skin diseases, as well as laser treatment of the skin and injectables.
Dr. Dosal writes cosmetic questions for the certifying exams for the American Board of Dermatology. She is also the deputy editor for the American Academy of Dermatology's podcast, Dialogues in Dermatology.
Jessica Migala is a freelance writer with over 15 years of experience, specializing in health, nutrition, fitness, and beauty. She has written extensively about vision care, diabetes, dermatology, gastrointestinal health, cardiovascular health, cancer, pregnancy, and gynecology. She was previously an assistant editor at Prevention where she wrote monthly science-based beauty news items and feature stories.
She has contributed to more than 40 print and digital publications, including Cosmopolitan, O:The Oprah Magazine, Real Simple, Woman’s Day, Women’s Health, Fitness, Family Circle, Health, Prevention, Self, VICE, and more. Migala lives in the Chicago suburbs with her husband, two young boys, rescue beagle, and 15 fish. When not reporting, she likes running, bike rides, and a glass of wine (in moderation, of course).
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